Meg's & Lon's Magnificent Adventure: Istanbul

Istanbul – Turkey

Elona typing

Istanbul greeted us with sunny skies and a very relaxed customs and entry procedure – all good for us! We found our names waving at us and headed to our shuttle. Our accommodation we have to say on first impressions was not great. Yes we were near local transport: ie next to no let me correct that, on a train line and right behind the Blue Mosque –yes people RIGHT behind in fact a mere 10 metres from the nearest speaker that rang true and clear 5 times a day to inform us of the call to prayer J These prayers start at daybreak, around 4.30am and then middle of the sunlight hours, around 1.30pm and then you have mid afternoon which is around 5.30pm, then dusk around 9.30pm and then the fun one when you think you’re free and easy and asleep the 11.30pm after dark call to prayer bellows : /

Ok not great you hear, well on research we found out that it really didn’t matter as it would cost us an arm and a leg to actually cancel this one and ‘It’ll do pig, it’ll do!’ as the quote goes.

Our first few days were more about orientating ourselves so that when Mandel arrived we wouldn’t waste time in finding out how to get to and from places. We did do some wonderful public transport moves – always impressive even getting ourselves a card to use like the locals J Food we decided was fabulous – lovin’ every minute of it and we also had a kitchen and once we found ourselves a supermarket we were pretty much set up.

Mandel’s arrival was bloody early – not that she was meant to be early but her flight was an hour early – does that really happen?!?! So Megs and I reached her at a run and it was just wonderful to have my baby in my arms again – lots of hugs and on with the adventure we go!

Meg's Typing

During the wonderful 2 weeks that Mandel was with us we managed to accomplish what many other tourists are unable to do – see just about every possible historic and tourist attraction available in Istanbul. We started with the Arasta Bazaar (not difficult we actually walk through it 2 or 10 times a day), the Grand Bazaar where Mandel was a huge hit with the locals (See Photos). We visited the Blue Mosque, the Hagia Sofia, Topkapi Palace with the wonderful gardens inside the Palace walls and the magnificent external gardens; Gulhane Park where we whiled away a number of hours, enjoyed Turkish tea and of course took loads of photos. We also walked through the Hippodrome daily and wondered about the lack of symmetry displayed by the obelisk. Another favourite was the Spice Bazaar – where sweets, spices and other interesting items like leeches and any animal you can think of that you can carry (see photos) can be bargained for and purchased.

We also went on a couple of tours, one out to the Princes Islands and another to visit Pierre Lotti’s café; French writer who called Turkey his second home and fell in love with a married woman. He left Istanbul for a time and on his return he discovered that the woman he loved had died soon after his departure. He remained in Turkey and spent much of his time writing at this Cafe. The café is also one of the few that still brew coffee with a fire oven. The tour also took us passed many ruins of the city walls and the city cemetery that is dotted up a hill and very impressive as was Miniaturk (amazing and informative; we found out that the Obelisk is actually missing the top 3 metres of its original 8 metre height due to the harsh hand of nature – therefore it is asymmetrical). We also visited the 19^th Century European palace called Dolmabahçe, the Sultan of Turkey built this palace with a European influence especially in size and opulence but they still maintained the Ottoman Empire’s style with traditional culture.

After filling the days with Turkish history and sights we ensured we enjoyed the abundance of Turkish foods and witnessed the art of the Whirling Dervish. This is an amazing thing to watch – the man comes on stage with a tall brown felt conical hat (this apparently is to represent a tomb stone) and a large black cloak (earthly tomb) that he sheds when the music starts, revealing a white Kaftan and white pants (a shroud) he does a little prayer to the gods (that’s what it looks like!?!) and then crosses his arms, opens them and begins spinning to the rhythmic music. We timed one of these guys and he spun for over 4 minutes … now come on -you’ve seen kids try this and in ten seconds they look like they are rolling drunk – well these dudes are in a trance and when they are finished their spinning there is nothing, no swaying or anything, they just put on the black cloak and walk off stage – absolutely bloody amazing! The restaurant that we first saw this is in Arasta Bazaar and they have lovely rugs/carpets and men and some tourists smoking the big water pipes (that smell really nice sometimes!!) and often during the day you see the old men playing dominoes and backgammon. We pass this place all the time as it is just around the corner from our accommodation.

We did the Big Red Bus Sight Seeing trip that we both still agree is a wonderful way to see all the sights and decide which ones you wish to go back and visit more thoroughly. So on the bus we got to see the Asian Continent; Taksim Square, the fabulous city walls, Galata Tower and wonderful views of the Golden Horn.

Our next big trip would have been out to the Princes Islands that are about 20kms southeast of the city in the Sea of Marmara. There is a ferry service that takes you to the islands but because this was an organised tour we started with a bus trip before the ferry, that had a fabulous guide who said the most amazing things at times; you know the things that you get wrong when you’re speaking in another language like ‘sit and make comfortable’ and ‘my group is stay with me’. He was just a lovely man who was very informative. Mandel would just get the giggles though and that was funny in itself.

The ferry trip to Buyukada was about an hour and 20 minutes and we were entertained by a man selling his wares and of course the constant stream of men selling tea. The highlight of this trip was the horse drawn carriages that tour the island. There was quite a wait in line for this and our guide was ensuring that we didn’t let anybody in or talk to anyone standing near you ‘They just want to get in line front you – no talking bad!’ Us being a group of three got given a lovely young man from Iraq who was over the moon in being grouped with three women especially Mandel who sat with me leaving the seat beside Megs for our guest he he he. He kept a secure arm around Megs when he wasn’t videoing Mandel and myself – hilarious!!

Anyway; some very nice views were had and it was a great way to see the island. We also thoroughly enjoyed our fish lunch which was part of the tour and Mandel who from day one was totally amused by the unlimited supply of cats on the streets was astounded that the island was the same and on seeing the photos we realised she also likes to take photos of said pussy cats. Well; at the fish restaurant Mandel befriended and fed two cats and got quite cranky when Megs wouldn’t share her food lol – yeah right!! The people of Turkey are very much like Mandel and often you will see containers of water and food left out for cats. On research we found out that the Prophet Muhammad liked his cat so much that he cut off his sleeve so as not to disturb it – hence people like cats – it’s funny how things like that happen. Our research also said that the Turkish rounded up the stray dogs and took them to an island to starve to death – I guess Muhammad wasn’t too fussed with dogs?!?!

Of course the important day came upon us too soon when we realised that the Harry Potter final film was being released and we madly researched where we could see it and if it was going to be in English. We left early just in case of lines etc and would you believe there were about 10 people in the cinema with us!!!!!!!! How’s that for a grand opening?

We will go into details with the photos as just so much was done with Mandel but I will tell you that Mandel and I did spend a mother daughter day and we chose to do that out at the Princes Islands again, this time though on Heybeliada. We were in search of a beach … now we did find one but it was not what we expected and probably should have realised after walking through the main town we were handed brochures of boats that take you to other beaches – though they didn’t look like beaches more like wharfs with sun lounges on them. Anyway we found the beach and paid to have two sun lounges as there is no way you could lay on the rocks/pebbles. Very little space and not so easy to enter the water but glorious once you were in. I think the thing that stood out most was that a number of women swim fully clothed or in special swim suits that cover neck to ankle and then you also realise they can’t swim!!! I have never seen so many kiddie floating devices used for grown women. There was a girl there Mandel’s age who had floaties on her arms and she was absolutely terrified. It was nice to have some time together and just catch up on stuff. Mandel has always been not only my daughter but my friend whom I really enjoy her company and who I not only love but like. She’s absolutely fun to be around and we laugh constantly J

Saying goodbye to Mandel was not easy and the lovely man who patted my shoulder on the tram while I cried all the way home was very consoling!!

Lol. And then we have the next 24 hours where the majority of that time was being on Skype with Mandel as she had caught some nasty bug and was throwing her guts up in Bangkok and was thoroughly depressed poor kid. Not much sleep had by either of us and I am amazed she got herself to the airport and on a plane but she did the little trooper. Luckily a customs/security person didn’t notice how sick she was and stopher boarding the plane which was my concern – not that I told her that!! But she arrived home safe and sound albeit very tired.

The rest of our trip was a combination of lazy PJ days, shopping for the things we need for our respective jobs ie clothes and more clothes and of course the essential toiletries of which I’m sure 40% of my bags are full of!! And thank god for Mandel bringing over the second bag for me – much needed especially with the fact that I bought sheets and towels!!

We ate in, we ate out; we were totally bemused that Ramazan (Ramadan) made absolutely no difference whatsoever to life here. We believed restaurants would be closed, less people and not being able to drink water when we walk around; which we do ALL the time but no in fact nothing changed except for the fact the night time became more like festival time; people enjoying family picnics, entertainment, markets and restaurants having set menus and prices. It was very festive and lovely to see but I think we will be entering into countries; Sudan and Dubai that are not so relaxed about this religious custom and we will need to be wary not to offend.

It was difficult to say goodbye to Istanbul in some respects, as it is the last joint holiday country in our magnificent adventure 2011.

Our accommodation location was amazing. This is the Blue Mosque as we left the Arasta Bazaar and walked around the corner. This area of Istanbul is just filled with historic buildings that give you a peak into the world 100's and even 1000's of years ago.

One of our first forays into the Turkish cuisine - Meze plate and a Shepard's plate. The shepard's plate was like a fresh tomato, cumcumber and capscium salsa, the Meze plate also had hummus, and a spicy tomato dip all with lavish bread - YUMMMMMMM!

Looking back towards the city wall from the Mamara Sea coast line. The city wall around the city of the Istanbul forms a triangle. Some areas of the wall are near complete ruin whilst other look steadfast

and in no need of repair.

The wall itself represents a timeline of invasions and architectual advances introduced to the city over time. The different techniques used to repair or even rebuild various sections of the cities walls tells a story of an constantly evolving city.

Small communtity farmers market we found around the corner from the apartment.

Book seats - soo cute!

Now there is a story that goes with this photo. This street light had not non-functional for about a week and a half since our arrival. We were disturbed with sounds of machinery after dinner and looked out the window to investigate. What we found was about 9 Turkish men standing around discussing the best way to change the light bulb in the street light. The cherry picker took the man up so he could change the light bulb - the difficulty was that by this time the sun was setting and he was trying to use the light from his mobile phone to change the light bulb. The hilarity of the situation and that in the end they couldn't change the lightbulb because it became to dark to see lead to the question being asked - "So how many Turkish men does it take to change a lightbulb???" I will let Elona give you the answer...

Time flew and it was time to meet Mandel at the airport... We thought we had timed our arrival at the airport so we would be there to meet her...

We had just left the apartment for the airport (30mins drive) when Mandel called and said I am here!!! Her plane had landed an hour early - can you believe it. After some happy tears with loads of hugs and kisses we all headed back the to apartment for breakfast. (Yes we were up that early!!!)

First stop after breakfast was the Spice Bazaar. The Spice Bazaar is not only for spices - they also have a section at one side that is dedicated to pets and all the associated foods and accessories. Mandel was enchanted by the baby bunnies.

Turtles anyone - penny turtles though to medium sized turtles..

but the tiny ones were the cutiest.

After the pets section we continue to the plants - mainly fresh herbs and spices, though flowers can be found.

Spice market - it is very difficult to get a photo without staff from nearby stalls noticing that you have paused for more than 5 seconds and make the most of a potential selling opportunity.

The other reason they may come running is a chance to get a little closer?!?!

It worked for this guy - what a great conversation starter.

Cherry anyone?

Outside the Blue Mosque

Highjinks at home - Mandel's new book from "The Clan of the Cave Bear" series has a interactive cover, if you log on to a particular website you get to see a 3D version of the main character - very cool.