With dizzy spells here there and everywhere we boarded to plain to Miami the first stop over on our way to Cusco. Nothing extremely noteworthy to report hours in an airport, where we walked a lot then onto another plain to Lima this time. We only had 2 hours to get through customs in Lima than check-in via the domestic terminal to board our flight to Cusco.
This post has been a long time in coming due to a mishap. We spent a considerable amount of hours working on our Cusco post and it didn’t save and by the time we realised this we were due to get on our cruise which had the most expensive internet that you had to fight the other 2000 odd Brazilians to get to. Therefore here we are almost a month a later writing about one of the most fantastic places we have been to but probably without the little things…you know the silly things that happen that if you don’t write them down you forget them but still Cusco was amazing enough in itself so I hope you enjoy this post.
We were greeted at the airport by Fidel who ushered us outside and asked us to wait whilst he brought the smallest car we have ever seen up to this point to squeeze us and our luggage into – this was humorous in itself. We then proceeded through the streets of Cusco into the Colonial Section of town – cobble stone streets, beautiful architecture and many picturesque plazas. I practiced my long forgotten Spanish and was pleased that I could still hold a conversation with someone – we talked about the many dogs that roam the streets (apparently they don’t keep them in backyards – as there are very few of these or inside the house). We also spoke about the places that were interesting to visit. The conversation came to a holt when we entered into the REAL colonial part of town that had many hilled cobble stone streets that have been here since before cars and were meant for a couple of llamas without side mirrors!!!! I’m telling you people flatten themselves against walls not to be hit by them!
We were very blessed with our wonderful accommodation at Encantada Boutique Hotel in San Blas. Wonderful staff and Marcos and his wife Nicole were more than helpful and wanted us to treat their hotel as our home and amazingly you really could. The rooms were comfortable and although the showers did have hot running water normally our first day they were having problems with the water heating system and I was thrown back in time to long ago in Costa Rica having cold showers in the morning before school – not nice once you have acclimatised and it’s MUCH colder here in Cusco because of the altitude.
Now the paragraph on altitude; oh my god….I now know how it feels to be old and out of breath!!! Everyone said that it would take a few days to acclimatise to the altitude and to stay in Cusco and just wander slowly around. Well they weren’t kidding – of course our hotel was on top of a hill so the walk into town was downhill and very pleasant but the walk home became a test of endurance…stopping a number of times on steps to sit and hope that our hearts were not going to burst out of chests!!!! We did drink the Coco leaf tea which tastes like dirty socks by the way but is supposed to ease the symptoms J It did get progressively easier for me but Megs didn’t seem to acclimatise and we had said before the trip we would ensure not to push ourselves too hard and whomever was the one (and it really could have been either of us) that wasn’t coping as well; that we would take it at that level and that’s exactly what we did. This led us to do our first tour via horseback which was spectacular – just brilliant!! What a way to see the Incan ruins and the trails that were walked by many messengers in Sacsayhuaman
(pronounced almost like sexy woman – very funny) Through this horseback experience we met Edmondo who fed us traditional foods afterwards and which we went back because his plain fair was not only tasty but very filling and the top of our list because we were on a budget –CHEAP!
The Colonial Area in Cusco in general and especially where we were staying in San Blas is the art district; so you can imagine just how excited I was; Megs and I have promised to come back and buy up big in household decorating items. If you have seen any of my paintings then just picture in your head the same style but with Peru content – fabulous colours! The weaving is also very traditional and many people still hand weave and we were shown on a number of occasions that that is what we are buying – just amazing hand made works for very reasonable prices!! We did buy some to send home (not a cheap option I’m telling you!!!!) but we will come back one day!
Megs Typing
Whilst we were acclimatising in the first few days we spent our time between exploring all the areas of Cusco within walking distance to our accommodation. When we weren’t walking the streets and seeing the many sights and works of Arts to be seen, we were madly researching how to get visas into Brazil. Luckily, when we were checking our luggage at the airport in New Orleans the lady made a chance comment about the officials in Lima wanting to check our US visas on arrival. This comment seemed passingly strange as we could not figure out why the Peruvian Government would care about our US visa status as we where leaving the States and had not plans to return in the immediate future. I say luckily, as this comment prompted a quick search on the internet to verify that we did not require visas for Peru – fantastic the Peruvians welcome visitors from Australia. I also decided to check on Brazil as it was the next country and our itinerary – and OH POO. Brazil is not so welcoming and we did need to acquire visas somehow.
We were scheduled to stay 2 weeks in Cusco and then fly via Lima (with a 12 hour stopover) then on to Brazil for 6 days before boarding the ship for our long awaited cruise. After many agonising hours of research and emails back and forth to the Brazilian Embassy in Lima, our options were limited. The embassy would not accept a visa application via mail you must present yourself in person; it was going to cost over $800 USD return for us to fly from Cusco to Lima to submit the application (way too expensive!) and lastly cancel the 5 days in Brazil, rearrange our flights and stay in Lima and hope that the Brazilian Embassy was able to process the visa applications in 3 working days and not the 5 they said it could take (this was the least expensive and had the highest chance of success – option 3 it was).
Once we had made our decision and reorganised our flights there was nothing to do other than put the situation out of our minds and focus on the wonders that Cusco has to offer.
Marcos and Nicole also run a tour business and we were able to arrange a one-day tour to see Pisac and the Sacred Valley at Ollantaytambo. Mario was our guide and he truly has the agility of a mountain goat, the way he walks around the precarious ruins of Pisac.
Before reaching Pisac, Mario suggested a short side trip to an animal sanctuary. The people who ran the sanctuary rescued animals that had been baited or drugged either for illegal export or for ancient medicinal cures and were looking after them or preparing them for release. It was an amazing place and definitely worth seeing. See photos.
Elona typing:
Pisac is part of the Sacred Valley of the Incas with some of the mountain peaks reaching over 5000 metres in height and was the personal holding of the Incan rulers. The Sacred Valley stretches for about 100km from Pisac to Machu Picchu. The Incans were incredible architects their agricultural terraces (see photos) fitted the geometrical design to the natural forms of the hillsides and mountains, the terraces of Pisac not only solve practical needs but also respond to aesthetic, symbolic and religious motivation. The terraces were built in places that were seen as pockets with microclimates where there was less hail and wind; they were situated to receive the most amount of sunlight – apparently the terraces of Pisac, including those on the valley floor occupy about 65 hectares: HUGE!
Mario was an amazing character who was not only extremely knowledgeable on the history surrounding these historical ruins but also appeared to be very well known to every female at all the sights we visited and especially the markets where every time we turned around he was talking to some female – we gave him heaps about this!!!!
We enjoyed one of the most expensive lunches we have had in Cusco and maybe even the US but still an experience to be had with a buffet full of traditional fair. Some things you just throw on your plate without any knowledge of what you’re actually eating…can be a little dangerous at times…we still think we ate alpaca meat in our lasagne the other night but ignorance is definitely bliss in those circumstances! He he he. Have to say though you can’t mistake having guinea pig as the thing actually comes out whole looking like a fully roasted pig – not pleasant: see photos!
From lunch we headed to Ollantaytambo which is still located in the Sacred Valley area about 80kms to the northeast of Cusco. It is one of the finest archeological complexes in Peru; built on approximately 600 hectares, it contains religious, astronomical, administrative and urban complexes, with areas reserved for activities related to agriculture and livestock.
This place can hold the most amazing succession of astonishing luminous effects in its surroundings. This is the site, unique in the world, inspired many of the fantastic images of the Incan Mythology. It is certainly a place to behold, sit back and absorb.
Our journey back to Cusco was via a very little used road by the river whose name I have forgotten but it was running high and fast and the road – if that is what you could call it, wound its way around the mountains and at times put us precariously close to the river or rock slides from the mountains: Good Fun!! It was a long day but a very enjoyable and informative one.
What else – ahhhh of course Machu Picchu, we of course do a few more trips into Sacsayhuaman and about town shopping but the most outstanding thing in Cusco is obviously the one seen in all the photos: Machu Picchu. The adventure began with a train ride to the town of Machupicchu which we decided after research to stay at a hostel and not a hotel that costs $600US a night: who knew?? The hostel was, hang on I’m trying to find the word hhhmmm crap yes that’s the word. In fact so mouldy and nasty that we spent as little time in there as possible; not a fabulous welcome to the place but still on went the back pack and up we headed to the site. The bus ride was an event in itself – how the bus drivers manage to get round those corners without going over the edge or hitting anyone is just amazing! We walked by all the lovely guide people and with our trusty book purchased at Pisac on the recommendation of Mario, we headed surprisingly down to begin with but that didn’t last long and with the sun high in the sky of lovely fluffy white clouds we explored Machu Picchu.
I’m stealing a little of this from the book we had but since this place was presented to the world by Hiram Bingham in 1911 (the Incans destroyed a lot of the trails so as to deter the Spanish; which it did thankfully!) Machu Picchu has exercised a power of fascination over all those who have visited the site, perhaps because in its architecture (it was the final expression of Incan art)it is possible to experience a space which, enhanced by the countryside that surrounds it, suggests the idea of the infinite. This is a magical place set in the midst of a grove of high mountains and surrounded by an enormous serpent: the river Vilcanota.
Even with the tourists present it is such a big place that it is possible to find spots to sit and reflect on what life was like way back then with children running around – this is a feat in itself as the steps around this place would have been just as hazardous as they are today with no railings and long drops…very long drops. It was so very nice to visit ruins that really, all that has changed is that there are no roofs on the buildings as these would have been made out of thatch and alpaca skin. It was just magical and at times a little scary navigating the stairs and terraces but overall the place has such an energy and spirituality that for myself I have to admit I have never found in any of the churches I have been in around the world; pure spirituality.
Fabulous day spent and showers and bed – yes you guessed it in the mouldy room with what we believed would be lice infested pillows and bedding so we bought scarves and put eucalyptus (we didn’t have any melaeuca) in our hair (see photo – very unattractive) put as many clothes on as possible and went to sleep. We were awoken in the morning by the sound of water – firstly we thought that it was the river that runs from Aquas Clientes (hot pools) but no, in fact it was another torrential downpour at the end of their wet season. Check out looming we donned our raincoats and went exploring around the base of Machupicchu and got thoroughly drenched but some good photos. The rain ceased just as we were to get on the train to return to Cusco- typical!! He he he
Saying goodbye at Cusco was very difficult – this is such a wonderous place with so much to give; history, culture, sense of family and welcoming arms to all tourists (not always found by the way!) We once again had Fidel our trusty driver to take us back to the airport and we promised ourselves that we would definitely come back to not only shop – lots of great things to buy for the home decorator!!!!! But also to share with family members; I know I’m hoping to come back with Mandel so she too can experience the beauty to beheld in this fabulous place.
First glimpse of Cusco from the plane
This is coca tea - smells and tastes like dirty socks but does help alleviate the symptoms
associated with altitude sickness!
View from our hotel
Same again
Fashion guru - a lady at the market decided to dress me up!
And don't I look happy about it!
Meg's got her turn but somehow she managed to look good!
Plaza de Armas just a few minutes downhill from our hotel - a few more minutes back though!
We have decided that there is an Irish Pub everywhere we go - this is where
we believe we may have had alpaca meat!!
This is a church and University on Plaza de Armas
Central fountain
Lots of ladies and children dressed traditional wander the streets and for a dollar a
piece you can get your photo taken with them!
This is the much walked road - yes road they were originally built for
alpacas and llamas but they do manage to get cars down them - amazing!
The wall here are original Incan stones - there is a twelve sided stone here.
This is the street to San Blas where we were staying - this is the
art district of Cusco.
This is Marcos' (owner of Encantada - our hotel) puppy.
The steps leading down to the main gate of the hotel
The view from the hotel taken with panoramic
It is a boutique spa - did we mention that??
View down from the 4th floor
Artwork hanging down the centre
One of the many little alcoves of treasures to be found in Cusco
As is the pineapple juice - yum!
Pasta WITHOUT alpaca !! OR GUINEA PIG!!
My new alpaca - Humphrey in his new carry bag with...you
guessed it Alpacas!!
The ladies dressed traditionally walk all around Cusco - I didn't pay for
this one it was taken with the zoom!!!
Our first try of the local drink "Inca Kola" very sweet - a
little like sarsaparilla
Church San Cristobal - well the view anyway as the church was
undergoing renovation
Golden alpacas what more could you ask for?!?!
Golden Llamas - you're right!
The markets often have some great artwork and Incan depictions
Backside of a fountain outside of the colonial part of town
Front side - that's Elona back there...can you see her?
There she is!!! Not getting too wet!!
Another market artwork! Huge!
This is the toilet button in one of the markets that took me awhile to work
out - you pull the thing!!
It's on a rip chord like a toy - and it's literally a clothing button
One of the many markets with all the things we really didn't have room for!
Especially this one - Meg's wouldn't let me carry this one round
I don't think?!?! Cute though - she said it would have to pay for its own
airplane seat!
My new backpack - oh I wish that's all I really had to carry!
The not so happy face of Meg's looking at a menu poster - Guinea Pig!
They come out looking just like that - Yuk!
The traditional weaving is still a very strong custom in Cusco and the work is magnificent!
This is a church on top but it has a museum underneath and the
older part of the building on the left is original stone from the Incas.
Ice cream anyone?
Oh this is a closer look at the original stonework.
These boys were hilarious. One of them wanted one of the bananas we were eating
and I said he had to sing us a song so he goes off to get two friends and they start
singing - very funny. The two other boys were not as impressed that they were only
going to get food and not money for their performance - very funny also!
Again the traditional get ups
Local school lads playing around in the Plaza de Armas
How many men can you fit into a truck?
The police were just fantastic - they kept all traffic manageable and ensured
that the tourists were not being hassled by the vendors and were just overall
friendly and polite and well respected by the locals - nice to see!
Pineapple was a favourite but the watermelon juice was good too.
Cuddled up in bed - it does get cold here but the beds were cozy warm!
The growing family - wouldn't that big one look great with them!?!?
The stairs to the front door of the hotel
The bloody hill that we went up at least twice a day!
The first few days were a killer I'm telling you!
Side view - we were basically up on a hill in our hotel so this is the rest
of the hill just behind it
One of the many smaller streets
Alpacas, Kids and traditionally dressed women everywhere
The view of Cusco from our hotel. We have signs naming our suburbs, the States have water towers and Peru has theirs etched into the side of the mountains.
Alpaca in San Cristobal - Theses are the local mowers, they do a great job with nowhere near the noise.
Mud brick house with an interesting electrical installation on the left.
Imagine hauling your clothes up and down those steps on washing days!!!
The wet season brings the very high likelihood of mud/rock slides. Here you see the supports put in place to stop further damage.
Precarious supports they are - that is usually all that is stopping half the mountain slid, slipping to the bottom - a well place piece of board and a stick.
Section of the river diverted through the base of town. Many locals use the water for washing and other household needs include making mud bricks for construction - by lowing buckets to be filled by the flowing water.
On one of our explorations around Cusco, we found this out of the way pottery shop. the artwork outside (above) was an eclectic mix of all different styles. The pottery inside was just amazing - unfortunately it is not easy to travel with ceramics.
The stone facade to the pottery shop.
We are not sure what was behind the wall as there was some serious fencing around the buildings. The water enters the town here and looks clean and fresh, it does not take long before rubbish starts polluting the water ways and the locals still us the dirty water.
The yellow phone box outside the service station is really an ATM in disguise.
Excuse the photo - not one of my best - the real star is the caramel cake - Elona used to eat these in Costa Rica - only those were not covered in caramel and almonds on the outside.
One of the many other plaza's to be found in the city of Cusco
For Mandel
One of the major archways in Cusco
Local markets - mostly food and housewares
The meat sections was a little smelly - the fresh fruit and veggie section was great!
Cheese stall
This poor puppy was not enjoying the stroll through the streets
as the little girl struggled to get comfortable with him and keep up with her older siblings.
Plaza de San Francisco
We claimed this little section as our own - sitting by the fire was just as cosy here as in Lake Louise.
Guest lounge at our hotel
Horse riding tour - on our way to see the sun temple
View from horse back
Horses did extremely well to manage steep rocky inclines - happy we weren't on foot.
Looking down to some of the ruins - amazed to see so many gum trees. Peru imported gum trees to help with erosion - like all imports they are now finding that the gum trees are using a large portion of their water.
Panoramic view of the remaining walls - a lot of the stone work was removed and incorporated into the churches of Cusco.
Discovering the purpose of the architecture of the Incas
By the way our guide walked/ran whilst we rode the horses.
Remnants on the Inca trail from Sacsayhuaman to Machu Picchu and our guide (not Mario - unfortunately we can not remember his name)
Walking the Inca Trail
Lovely Sunday horse ride.
Sun Temple ruins
The precision used to fit the stones together is unparalleled.
Sitting back and relaxing amongst the ruins of Sacsayhuaman, Sun and Lunar temples of the Incas just behind Cusco
Horses graze amongst the gum trees whilst we investigate!
Lunar temple
Exploring the Lunar temple
Amazing stone work
Back on the Inca Trail
Sun temple
finding shade from the heat of the day.
The window built into the stone walls were for decorative purposes.
The Incas would display works of art in the recesses.
I am at the table - I know they were short - but were they really that short?!?!
Everyone relaxing on a warm Sunday afternoon.
Cusco has a lot of farm lands just behind the main town - maybe it was real beef in that lasagne after all.
Looking back at Sacsayhuaman
Students chefs work this restaurant for experience and practice and proceeds fund various community projects - very cool.
It is nice to know that there are organisations that give back to the community
We found a place that served real Chai tea - they also had a cat!
The 12 edged stone on the road to San Blas in Cusco
View from one of the terraces at Pisac
Elona investigating the cave tunnels
Tunnel through the mountain.
These are shelves from an inside wall of a residence
One of the many views of Pisac
Another view in Panoramic
The waterfall signifying the end of our trek down Pisac
The ugly bird at the sanctuary near Pisac
These birds were shoved down PVC piping to be smuggled
Megs with turtle
Elona with white tail deer
One of the three doves - just beautiful
These are puma sisters
Condor in flight - we were in the cage with them!
Just amazing creatures - and they understand Spanish and are happy to show off.
This poor little bugger had his talons/claws taken off
for medicinal use which means he would die in the wild.
Very sad
This has to be the ugliest dog in the world: the Peruvian Dog!
Isn't he cute - NOT!
Meet Bob he is a 9 month old bobcat
Pisaq with a Q is the Incan way of spelling Pisac
One of the main doorways that could be barred and was constructed
in such a way as to not fall down in an earthquake
Lots of ledges people but some wonderful views!
You can still see the store houses and residences - without roofs obviously
Shot taken by Mario
These are storage sheds - the Incans put all their energies into storing
through the warmer periods to survive the winters
Our tour guide Mario
One of the local mud brick houses - also has the spiritual sun and moon
Local market
Local man
On our way to Ollantaytambo
The face on the side of the mountain at Ollantaytambo
Can you still see it?
Another beautifully constructed doorway at Ollantaytambo this time
These stones are up to 100 tonnes and were moved from the base of the mountain
to the very top - with NO WHEELS - incredible!
Megs, Mario and local flower in background
He was sooo lovely!
Ollantaytambo market place
Local transport
As we said the river was very close! This is from the inside of the car!
What you need to navigate around on the road.
This is the train track that heads up to Machu Picchu
Sacsayhuaman - our second trip
Again those fabulous doorways - Sacsayhuaman 2nd trip
look at that wonderful doorway behind us!
The growing family
The Machu Picchu train
A woman selling her wares at the station
You get gifts on board - well food!
Some of the guttsier trekkers - they would have had two
whole days of downpour - the poor things!
This is the train to Machu Picchu with big windows
Whenever the train stopped there would be children asking
for food or nik naks from the travellers
Our first view of Machu Picchu
Megs
Lon
Oh look there's doorways in Machu Picchu too!
Fabulous views
A much larger doorway with a view - who could ask for more!
Ahhhh the picture everyone takes - imagine how many people
have stood on this spot!
Now can you see the Condor and the Puma - good luck with that!
One to prove we have been here!
Funny guide man with an umbrella - it was warm!
Another nice one
The red plant (whose name escapes me for the moment) really stood out
The terraces here were incredibly steep
A main hall
Again the terraces next to storage areas
Now check out this sign - it's pointing forwards and when
you look at it you think it just goes off the edge.
Well guess what - it bloody does - there was no way we
were going down these ones.
This is the river running from Aquas Calientes in the town of Machu Picchu
This is our terribly mouldy room - not pretty!!
What we do to make sure we don't get lice - not attractive, but essential
Megs with Peruvian Royality
Elona getting up close and personal
Elona with a Puma
The rainy day adventure
Wet to the core we explored the areas around the base of Machu Picchu
The Butterfly House - was closed - did that stop us?????
No - we just broke in!
Fungi was one thing we found in the now defunct Butterfly House
It was wet in there too!
but nice flowers - not a butterfly to be seen
Drying out - everything including train tickets and passports more than a little damp
Elona with Wayne - Wayne is our name for the Puma you see in the mountain face.
Can you see the Condor in this religious section?
Better view - think of it with its wings up like those condors at the sanctuary.
New friend
Local musicians
Drying out
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