Friday, April 1, 2011

New Orleans - Louisiana

New Orleans

Before leaving the gorgeous Butler Greenwood we ensured we had our accommodation all booked as when we were in Memphis we found out our stay coincided with the Mardi Gras. It was difficult but we managed to get ourselves an apartment.

The drive was easy and we arrived at the airport to drop off the car. No people to pick us up? Tried ringing – nothing…left messages…tried email…a little more successful if you can call it that – he thanked us but because our money was not in quick enough he has given the apartment to someone else – Happy Mardi Gras!!!!!!! Poo bum dicky dicky wee wee was almost what I said. As you can imagine this is Friday, the beginning of Mardi Gras…we hit the phone and the internet with absolutely no luck…eventually though we managed to get a hotel for just one night (we were here for 10 days!!) for an extraordinary amount of money but it at least gave us the ability to do more research. Have to say though that we had a lovely lunch at the “Treasure Chest” a casino on a Steam Paddle Boat. Great Buffett and very cheap – I guess that allows you to bet more! My mother is very upset that I didn’t even put $1 on something!! Sorry Mum.

After research we found a place for two nights in Mississippi Bay St Louis not a fabulous place but only 45 minutes from New Orleans.

Tired – Meg’s turn

Things of interest staying outside of the French Quarter – we drove past NASA, and best of all Waffle House Breakfasts for 2 mornings.

We decided to investigate the French Quarter the next day, with Gwen’s assistance we found a car park ($20 not bad) and set off to discover New Orleans or N’Awlins as y’all say it in these ‘ere parts. 

The weather was a little dodgy, and many of the Mardi Gras revellers were wearing plastic ponchos – having decided that this might be a good idea as I forgot to wear my raincoat (have to say I had been battling the flu for the last 2 days and the brain wasn’t working real well).  Poncho purchased and just in time as the drenching torrential rains poured from the heavens.  We decided that lunch was a good idea – someplace dry, we happened by a small place somewhere in the FQ and were absolutely gobsmacked as we sat down and noticed that people at the next table were smoking!!! Yes in the restaurant!!!! Only in Louisiana!! Breathing through our mouths we ate lunch and got out of there when the rain lightened up some.

Elona Typing

We did look around a bit and checked out some shops but really more of the sites were seen the following day. We managed to get in a Parade on the Sunday – just crazy stuff!! People 5 to 6 deep on both sides of the road and these huge floats – as big as a double decker bus roll by, people go absolutely crazy screaming and raising there hands to catch the beads!! BEADS; plastic tacky beads but yes our arms were raised as well, well that was until we actually caught some and when hefted from that height it actually hurts like hell to catch them so from that point on we just ducked!!

We made our way to the French Quarter Markets – more beads but more importantly masks – yes the big deal here is not only tacky beads but masks and some of these are just exquisite – both Megs and I decided that these were works of art and a MUST! Also a must was spending time drinking lemonade (real lemonade not the schwepps stuff) and listening to the bands play and sing a combination of blues and jazz. A fabulous way to spend the afternoon.

We braved Bourbon Street on the way back to the car. Now it was just on dark and we could hear music, yelling and laughter from about four streets away but still ladies and gentlemen we did it – OMG – OMG –OMG OMG OMG! Wall to wall people, drunk and standing under balconies – which really is in the middle of the street with their arms raised, or buttocks shown or tops lifted to entice those on the balconies to throw – you guessed it; tacky plastic colourful beads. Crazy! Dear oh dear some people were trying to throw alcohol from the balconies and people trying to catch it in their mouths. Street drinking is allowed though most places serve drinks 'to go' in plastic cups only but there were still a number of bottles on the ground. It took us quite some time to navigate our way through and we both looked at one another and heaved a sigh of relief when we did– ok tick that’s done.

We had a day off and relocated to a wonderful farm called Cottage on the Farm – another amazing place that we knew instantly would allow us to relax and it’s located in and amongst a number of plantations and swamps would you believe!! Yes swamps – one running along the side of our cottage which on one night I heard a rather large splash and thought “Hhhmmm I wonder what the hell that was?” But I didn’t find out till the next morning when I saw a bloody alligator make that exact same noise as it entered the water. Now there is a sign that we thought was cutesy the day before – it says ‘crocodile crossing’. Megs didn’t come outside for quite some time! Lois the owner came down to see us and I chatted with her for quite some time – and yes we discussed alligators and she did advise us not to feed them as they can become a problem. She then told me about a guest who did just that and she ended up having to shoot the bugger and give it to a local restaurant - the alligator not the guest!!– yes they eat crocodile here and it’s not just a touristy thing – it’s on all the menus – gator bites are quite popular apparently as is gator jerky. I’m sorry to say we didn’t try either but I did send some jerky to Mandel and I will let you know what she thinks about it.

Tuesday was Mardi Gras day and we headed back into New Orleans and our parking place had gone from $20 first trip, to $35 second trip to Tuesday’s grand total of $40 – don’t you just love Mardi Gras! Still the car was safe and it was in a great spot so again we decided to stay there. We also had researched a little and we both wanted to go to the first parade which was the Zulu parade; the original parade and it was great. Now we thought it was crowded on Sunday – nothing in comparison to the people we saw on this day!! To top it off, it was the dress up day and it was just fantastic to 'people watch' and to take photos of some the amazing get ups – check out the photos. People had been dressing up prior to this but this is THE day to really make your mark and boy did some people make a HUGE effort – see the photos. Megs and I dressed in our usual with the added artworks ie Masks!! People had brought ladders to aid them in their bead collecting and it was absolute mania!! But fun. Again I need to mention that the people here are the most polite friendly people. Even in this crowd with a lot of alcohol they still remember their manners – it’s wonderful.

We enjoyed lunch and sampled Cajun Food such as Gumbo, Jambalaya, crawfish and rice and red beans. Of course this was with a good side of live Jazz and Blues – the things that make New Orleans just brilliant. There were a number of smaller parades through the French Quarter which were very energetic with some great music. Also weirdly there were 8 trucks with huge signs on the side – not cheap ones but professionally done that stated The end is coming – not 2012 but May 2011. We haven’t researched this yet – not sure what it was but it was religious based. We’ll keep looking but if anyone knows about it let us know – interesting. Ok since writing this I found out in Peru that this date is based on the Inkan calendar - again interesting!

We managed to get into Café du Monde where we were able to sample the Beignets and hot chocolate. Beignets are a French donut with loads of icing sugar; very messy but delicious. The coffee is apparently the best in the world but we only did the hot chocolate and that was great. Every time we see this place it has a line up for take away and to get seated – amazing. We went down to Frenchmen St which is full of piano bars and jazz places but not a lot of restaurants that were available – way too many people!!! So we decided to head to Margaritaville where we enjoyed Fried Green Tomatoes again and also  fabulous cheese and corn chips. Meg’s Jimmy Buffett experience/knowledge is improving.

I’m not sure what came over us but we decided to walk down Bourbon Street – OMG OMG OMG what were we thinking - times what I said earlier by 100. A number of women had taken advantage of the body art parlour and were…interesting!! Navigating our way through the revellers was no easy task but we did manage it. There were soooo many people all doing the bead and alcohol thing but also there was a number of religious groups – check out the photos - in and amongst the revellers. There were going to be some very sick people tomorrow that’s for sure!! We waved goodbye to Bourbon street and to Mardi Gras. We of course were coming back but most of these people would have left – thank god!

We took advantage of being in Louisiana and visited Oak Alley plantation – this has 28 Oak Trees lining a pathway to the front door of a beautiful mansion. The Oaks are 250 years old and apparently planted 100 years before the house was built – amazing!! The stories of this house were very interesting and the tour well worth the $18. They also served a fabulous Mint Julep!! Mine was virgin as I was driving but Meg’s knees went rather weak so I guess it was pretty strong – actually I don’t have to guess because I had a sip OMG! We took lots of photos and then enjoyed a lovely lunch there – they were out of Catfish (bummer! I really wanted to try this) so instead Gumbo it was and Meg’s had a Po – boy – this is just a ‘fancy’ name for sandwich!!! Well roll.

Speaking about food we also stopped in to an amazing restaurant called Bordeaux and Thibodaux  (said tib a doe) a Cajun joint – looked like a shed on the outside but was very nice on the inside and the food – Cajun Shrimp people…I could live on this stuff!! The sweet potato fries were also fabulous – I know - me eating fries – crazy but this is all about trying new things!

We also took in a movie – I know… weird but we really wanted to see The Adjustment Bureau and were worried if we waited till South America it might be dubbed. Great movie guys – well worth the $5 it cost us – how’s that - $5!!! What was consistent though was M and M’s still cost way too much but hey a much cheaper visit to the movies than at home.

Ok what else did we get up to – oh arguments with the post office; apparently you now have to have a return address in the US to send from the US – not much good for us when we don’t stay anywhere for long but I’m hoping to use my Uncle’s address just in case something gets returned – shouldn’t happen but hey stuff does happen on occasion.

Ok I think we are up to the swamp tour – great stuff. Alligators galore and a million paintings waiting to happen – just amazing scenery. Yes I have way too many pictures of trees but I am intending on doing some painting when we eventually stop travelling. It was very interesting to see our guide calling for the alligators by name – there are a few regulars apparently. We also saw some wonderful birdlife including a bald eagle – which I got a photo of J Overall a wonderful trip and some wonderful information shared by our guide.

Lastly – our last day in New Orleans we went on the Natchez – a steam paddle boat – one of the few (there’s only three now) that do tours on the Mississippi. Now I should talk about the scenery and the wonderful information learned but I have to tell you I saw the best looking man – yes people a black man – now I know I have a ‘type’ but here in Louisiana they are all my type which allows me to be more discerning -and this man- if you ignore the four kids and wife – was an absolute catch! Now it’s not often I need to hold onto Megs to stop me from doing silly things – she usually grabs me from behind (it has happened – have to say usually work related) but this man almost brought me to my knees and then we just couldn’t get away from him – seriously I was not stalking – Megs would NOT be pleased but even after moving places on the boat he turns up again – even when we left the boat and then again an hour later – very weird!!! Ok I will admit to taking a few snapshots – and being FORCED to walk upstairs directly behind him – you can picture this – oh the ass!!!! Hhhmmmm alright enough - I do have to say though I think I got caught taking a photo of him – I’ll put that one in – he looks a little confused he he he.

Alright enough – the Mississippi – well the little part we saw of it – it is huge!!!!! Was very interesting, apparently the third largest port in the world! But it was just lovely to be on the boat, eat the food and listen to the jazz and blues being played. This is New Orleans people – amazing place. We did, after a short wait, get in to Café du Monde again where we again enjoyed the Beignets and a decaf iced coffee – fabulous.  We are off to South America tomorrow. Sad to not be able to spend more time in New Orleans without Mardi Gras but it goes on the ever increasing list of places to come back to.

First sight in New Orleans - plastic covered toilet seat! 
You press the green button to move the plastic cover so you have a fresh layer of plastic to protect your bottom. 

Christmas Trees are revamped to become Mardi Gras Trees - Elona's a happy girl.

First exploration into the French Quarter, in the pouring rain.

The middle of the day in the streets of the French Quarter.

I forgot my raincoat - so I purchased a fashionable blue plastic poncho.

Our second accommodation was just over the Louisiana/Mississippi boarder - don't you just love the S's?


We were surprised to find out that NASA has a huge facility in Mississippi.  
We experienced strange unknown lights in the night sky, we waited for the car to stall on the dark deserted road and be abducted by aliens - but alas nothing quite that exciting.


Lunar Module - now residing in Mississippi.

One of the many interesting sculptures that can be found around New Orleans.

Mardi Gras weekend - people were already dressed ready to party.

The famous French Quarter markets established around 1794 and are still going strong.

Elona relaxing outside Margaritaville 

Another example of New Orleans art - donations are gratefully accepted.

Very cheeky street performer.

Like I said - cheeky but very entertaining

Banana and Nutella crepe stall - Elona admired the precision with which the crepes were made.

Mardi Gras fashion has no rules other than the more ostentatious the better.

Elona drinking in the gutter in the French Quarter (just lemonade truly!)

The party would not be complete without at least one Court Jester.

Transformer Street Performer - now you see the man

Now you see a Car with Legs

now you just see a car - Amazing and very clever!


Not as impressive visually as the Transformer Street Performer 
but they did have a great sound.

The objective on many of the parade spectators is to get noticed by the people on the floats in the hope that you will have necklaces, stuffed toys or coconuts thrown at you.  The more necklaces you have the more Mardi Gras Spirit you show.

Standing on rubbish bins or even bringing your own step ladder can give you an extra height advantage in the competition of catching necklaces from the passing floats.

Mardi Gras Spirit abound - we caught some and bought some - Necklaces that is!

One of the Krewes (it is how they spell it) from the University

One of the many styles of houses in the French Quarter which was founded in 1718 and was then signed over to a Spanish cousin of Louis XV (King of France) in 1762.

Many of the original structures were burnt to the ground in the Great Fires of 1788 and 1794 and the then Spanish Rules rebuilt in the style of the original French founders.

Our home away from away - if you forget about the alligators!


Lovely home we got to stay in


Plenty of room 

Fabulous and well stocked kitchen


Bedroom number 1



Bedroom number 2 - I know amazing - it's not often we are in different rooms!




Mardi Gras brings out the feathers, the fantastical and the fantasy.

You will be pleased to note that at the end of Mardi Gras the tress are revived and take on a new theme - that's right - where else in the world would you find Easter Trees.  Elona is over the moon happy to know that she can now have her Christmas/Mardi Gras/Easter tree up for nearly 6 months of the year.

Cafe Du Monde - a must!!  Only serve a small range of beverages and only one food item - 
The Beignet - a square hole-less donut type of pastry buried under mountains of icing sugar.

Sooo Messy - but oh soooooo Delicious!

For those of you who have not yet been initiated in the world of Jimmy Buffet; meet the man himself.

More Mardi Gras Fashion - Not even at the official Mardi Gras day yet!

Bourbon Street as the sun goes down and the alcohol goes way up.

Need to be careful walking Bourbon Street as necklaces are flung from the balconies into the people eagerly hoping and jostling to catch them on street level.  This is were you see many bear breasts and naked bottoms of young and old; male and female in the hopes of gaining favour of those on the balcony with the desperately sought after necklaces. (Should add that you can buy these necklaces from just about any shop, they cost approx. $10 for 5 necklaces.

In this perpetual party there are many there to save those who want saving (not that many from what we saw) from the perpetual sin that Mardi Gras invokes for some young foe.

Mardi Gras is also very big for the families.

Princess Elona in her headdress - ready for the ZULU parade.  The Zulu Parade was first founded in 1916 by Zulu Social Aid and Pleasure Club.


Many fabulous floats in the Zulu Parade


and lovely men wearing white


Some very interesting themes on the floats


Lots of feathers


The two decks allow for beads to be thrown further and hopefully through
to the 6 - 8 people thick crowd

Zulu Head - well one of them

And another...



Street parade; not so formal but very entertaining!


With great music!


Crowds are always interesting to watch!


Bless him - colouring his socks to match his head dress!


Some very creative people!


Of any age!


Bless - look it's Elmo!


I wonder what this kid thinks??


Scared if he saw this man I'm sure!!!


That's right people when your done with the parade you tie up
your donkey just outside your room for later!


Even house ornaments are dressed up!




Hear ye hear ye!!!



Lovely bathroom at our cottage!


Perfect!


I guess you've worked out the Mardi Gras colours by now!


Bless him - he looks beautiful!


Our artworks!!


Don't we just fit the scene!?!?


Hhhhmmm :)


That's her head dress not the chair!!


The kid behind me with his whistle - bless him for not continually blowing it!


Feathers Galore!


Weirdos galore!

 Traditional Cajun Food - we have Jambalaya, Crawfish, Gumbo and Etouffee: Megs
was not impressed and ended up having a sandwich.


Fabulous street band!


Oak Alley Plantation



28 Oaks lining the path to the house - what's weird is the trees were planted
100 years before the house was built!! It does have a view to the Mississippi but
you have to be on the second floor to see it.


Oak tree roots are huge!


Cajun shrimp - I love the food here!! Fabulous!


The great Mississippi!

Boudreau and Thibodeau Cajun Restaurants interior design: a Gator!!


The outside was a little dubious but the restaurant inside was great!


Gator is on the menu everywhere as is catfish, crawfish and shrimp!


Swamp Tours

Right on the water!

One of the many little houses that we believe are now not used but still there.

Again but this one looks tad haunted!

Sorry I just missed the alligator going in the water but you can just see his head
and the ripples on the water - this is just next to our cottage!!

Just to prove it - here's the water next to the cottage!

Oak Alley Plantation -they ring the bell every hour for the tours.


Us at the front door!

The view from upstairs.

Gumbo without seafood - Meg's likes this one!


View from the cottage - every night we had this then a night sky full of stars.


They mean this - trust me!


Meg's on the swamp tour


With her New Orleans Bling Cap - it's a Ladybird with bling - so cute!!


One of the canals that leads to the swamps - lots of people go fishing like
this dude behind us.

Amazing trees in the swamp!! Paintings waiting to happen!!

Amazing

A tad scary to have these so close but apparently kids swim in these areas as well!!!

'Where are the trees??'

A little girl apparently!

Just swimming around - hhhmmmm.

Bald Eagle


The swamp we were in is called Mandalay and is a Wildlife Reserve.

Can't feed them here either - that's with the exception to the tour operators.

"Look; trees!!"

Creepy looking when they have the grandfather's beards all over them!!


Looks like a Christmas tree in the middle of the water.

Our tour operator

Calling out to the Gators "Baaaaaaaaaaaaby" - seriously that's
what he calls them!


Meg's asleep on the Natchez!


I on the other hand was NOT asleep and checking out the views!


Bugger - got caught!! he he he




The Natchez Paddle Steam Boat


Street Performer

Setting up a scene

Very Cool!

NOLA - New Orleans Louisiana

The church in the Main Square of New Orleans


View through the Park

Meg's with her bling hat in the park


Another profile shot I think!!

And yes this one I did use as a profile shot - look I'm at church again!!

Our cottage on the farm!


Swing on  the front porch

There are rocking chairs everywhere here!!

We thought this was a joke - you know like having 'beware of the dog' when
you own a Shitsu!!

Apparently not!


Local cow

Yes they are actually in here!

COOL!!















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